It is important to remember that Lambrusco, one of Italy's most ancient wines, comes from more than one DOC and more than one type of vine. The DOC Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro produces some of the most interesting of this usually mass-produced wine. This densely brilliant, opaque purple wine is so dark, even the foam is purple. The purple intensity follows on the nose and on the palate. The explosive fruit flavors are pure frutta di bosco (mixed dark wild fruits) with a seductive hints of mint and thyme. The light effervescence is smooth and creamy on the palate opening into concentrated cassis, sweet ripe cherry and spiced plums that for some incomprehensible reason is dry in spite of all its sweet, rich fruit flavors. For such an intensely fruity wine it is also complex and layered with a long palate coating finish. This is perhaps the ultimate pizza wine. Serve chilled. (B+)
Grapes: Lambrusco Grasparossa, 85%; other Lambrusco varieties and/or Fortana and/or Malbo gentile, up to 15%.